H2 OH! Dive into Switzerland’s lakes
People around the world have long admired the majesty and splendour of Switzerland’s glorious Alps. But another upshot of those snow-capped peaks, are the many beautiful lakes – great and small – dotted across the country. With over 250 of them to discover, we’ve tested the water to find some winning ideas for summertime fun.
By Kati Clinton Robson
Switzerland and France share Western Europe’s largest natural lake. Lac Léman (known to many expats simply as Lake Geneva), takes up just over 580 square kilometres and offers a wealth of summertime activities, include sailing, waterskiing, wakeboarding, rowing and windsurfing.
Nautical pursuits
One of the most famous events held on Lac Léman each summer is the Bol d’Or Mirabaud regatta. This year’s three-day nautical festival will take place from June 11-13 and lure over 500 vessels and champion racers from across Europe in their sailboats and mono- and multi-hull crafts.
From the shore, Lac Léman can appear placid; however, the turbulent wind conditions can make the waters choppy, while its depth of one kilometre at the centre, means currents can be strong and unpredictable – these combine to add another exciting element to the race. The contest begins and ends in the Geneva harbour, with only one turn at the halfway point of Le Bouveret.
Some sailing boats manage the 146-kilometre course in less than five hours, but the average mono-hull vessel usually takes up to eight hours. Others may take a more leisurely pace (especially when the winds fall flat), using the entire weekend to complete the course.
With the picturesque lake encircled by mountains and hillside vineyards – and Mont Blanc looming on a clear day – there are many fantastic vantage points to catch part or all of the race: a lakeside café or lido, directly on the water in a paddleboat or perhaps from the vineyards above the lake with a glass of wine in hand and the sunshine warming your face.
Breezy does it
Leaving Switzerland’s largest lake, we travel to the easternmost canton of Graubünden to find some of its windiest. The lakes of Sils, St. Moritz, Silvaplana and Champfèr (each located above 1,700 metres) form a chain in the Upper Engadine. The predictable winds from the Maloja Pass make these lakes the perfect destination for sailing, windsurfing and kitesurfing, while the relatively small size of the lake means onlookers are never far from the offshore action.
Each summer Lake Silvaplana plays host to the Engadinwind Windsurfing and Kiteboarding Cup (July 2-4 and August 14-15), where up to 100 aerial enthusiasts try their hand at harnessing the wind in this exhilarating race. Whether you are a beginner, accomplished surfer or just a spectator, prepare yourself for an uplifting experience!
For those set on a more leisurely pace, Lake Sils also boasts Europe’s highest passenger boat service, which makes the 40-minute journey between Sils Maria and Maloja four times per day in summer. Passengers are likely to see fishermen taking advantage of the bountiful fish population – all area lakes have a surfeit of mountain trout, grayling and char. Fishing licenses are available through the local authorities.
Veering away from waterside pursuits, the town of Sils and the surrounding area holds many charms for culture vultures: Swiss artists Giovanni Giacometti and Ferdinand Hodler, and Italian artist Giovanni Segantini immortalised the spectacular landscape in their paintings; while German philosopher Friedrich Nietzsche produced many of his great works from his summer home, which is now a museum showcasing original letters and documents, as well as hosting special modern art exhibitions. It can also be booked for overnight stays.
Reflecting beauty
If you want to follow in the footsteps of Switzerland’s great artists, smaller lakes, lagoons and ponds are perfect locations for the enthusiastic photographer. The often-tranquil waters are ideal for capturing reflections; in fact, some of Switzerland’s most iconic photos have been shot in settings like these.
There are plenty of high-altitude lakes in the Matterhorn region that make great hiking destinations and also serve as a stage for photos of the legendary mountain backdrop. If you are interested in creating your own postcard, try the Riffelsee above Zermatt or Stellisee in the Sunnegga-Blauherd area, for imposing views of the Matterhorn. If you are further afield, the Blausee in the Aletsch region affords 360° views of the many peaks in the Alpine panorama.
Other reflection-rich lakes include the Bachalpsee above Grindelwald and Oeschinensee above Kandersteg in the Berner Oberland; as well as Seealpsee in Appenzell’s Alpstein area, Canton Obwalden’s Melchsee and Blausee, and the Palpuognasee at the Albula pass in Graubünden. Though, of course, there are many more waiting to be discovered.
Spice up the summer
If you lean towards the hustle and bustle, instead of the serene, look no further than Lake Zurich. The city’s lakeside promenade springs to life every three years in outrageous fashion during the three-day and three-night Züri Fäscht (July 2-4). Boasting bars and food stalls stretching from Zurichhorn to Enge Park, fairground rides galore, acrobatic feats on the high wire, aerial displays from Switzerland’s stunt flyers and paragliders, and two musical firework displays (rumoured to cost half-a-million Swiss Francs), this is the event of Zurich’s summer calendar – even forcing Street Parade to take a backseat.
Offering something for everyone and every taste, the triennial extravaganza is expected to draw over two million merrymakers, as enterprises take over the streets, providing food and live music; artists and entertainers hold court at Bürkliplatz, putting on a variety of acts and shows throughout the day, and area clubs pull out all the stops. This year’s event will have a special Caribbean-flavour as the annual Caliente Festival joins the fun, adding even more spice to the weekend!
Under the stars
If balmy summer evenings also need to include sleeping under the stars, then why not head south for the warmth and vibrancy of Lake Maggiore? Tenero is the lake’s camping capital with at least seven campsites within walking distance of the train station – most of which are equipped with pools, restaurants, BBQ spots and sandy beaches.
Tenero’s excellent transportation connections put Locarno only six minutes away by train, and you can be in Bellinzona in 20 minutes or Lugano in 50 minutes – making this lakeside location the perfect base. However, speaking from personal experience, these campsites are not hidden gems, so be sure and book early.
From this area, trips up the Maggia and Verzasca valleys – with their traditional stone houses, dairy farms, vineyards, grottoes and crystal clear rivers – can be easily undertaken. Hiking trails, ranging from the easy ramble to the steeply intense, reward explorers with untouched landscapes and rare glimpses into rural mountain life.
Though Ticino boasts some of Switzerland’s most beloved festivals, this writer recommends a trip to Ponte Brolla for the Cliff Diving Championships on July 23 and 24. Not for sufferers of vertigo, up to 20 courageous male and female divers show off their skills from a height of 13, 15 or 20 metres. The smoothly carved boulders present spectators with numerous viewing spots; by 15:00 the competition is in full swing and, on a sunny day, the valley has heated up nicely, making a dip in the chilly snow-melt river a refreshing prospect. To snag the premium places, it is best to arrive before noon.
Natural delicacies
With a continuing appreciation of nature, we venture back north to Lake Constance, Europe’s third largest body of fresh water. Replete with walking, skating and cycling trails, medieval towns, museums, thermal baths and spas, parks and gardens, and beautiful islands, it truly offers something for everyone.
The region’s landscape has been shaped by its cuisine. Starting in late summer, picturesque meadows are transformed into a bright sea of red apples, plump cherries, sweet smelling pears and rows of dark-purple plum trees. There are a few different options for the traveller hungry to spend a day out indulging in the local flavours, such as the nine-kilometre fruit trail starting in Altnau, Switzerland; the four-kilometre fruit and wine trail through the Hagnau region; and the three-hour cheese nature trail on Pfänder mountain (including a trip to an Alpine dairy for cheese sampling).
The horticultural oasis of Mainau Island has been tempting visitors to its shores for over a hundred years. It is Lake Constance’s most popular tourist destination, with more than a million visitors each year. The island’s cultivation – begun in 1827 – has exploded over the years: depending on the season, flower-lovers can see over 600 varieties of tulips, hyacinths and daffodils; more than 150,000 forget-me-nots, primroses and pansies; and a further 200,000 brightly coloured summer flowers beginning each July. This array doesn’t include the numerous rare trees or the much-loved butterfly house. The island is accessible by car from Constance or a 25-minute boat trip from Meersburg …
… Where you might be spending the weekend taking in the attractive, medieval old town, castles, half-timbered houses … or the famed wine festival. For over 25 years, wine lovers have travelled from near and far to attend the Bodensee Wine Festival (September 10-12). Thousands of connoisseurs sample fermented grape juice from the region’s 14 wine-growing estates, as well as other tasty specialities offered by Meersburg’s bakers, butchers and fishermen. The festival includes a melodic dose of musical entertainment from local brass bands.
No matter where you live or what your interests, you are sure to find something exciting happening at one of the country’s gorgeous lakes. And with so many to explore, the summer’s possibilities really are endless!
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